Scenic Excursion Train Ride in NE Oregon

On May 8, 2024 Scott and seasonal helpers at Mountain View Motel & RV Park took a picturesque ride on Northeast Oregon's Eagle Cap Excursion Train. The complimentary trip was arranged by Friends of the Joseph Branch for people in the local hospitality industry to experience this fun attraction and be better able to describe it to visitors. The historic Joseph Branch began passenger rail service between Elgin and Joseph in 1908.

Conductor Max

We boarded the train at Wallowa Union Railroad Depot in Elgin and met Friends of the Joseph Branch volunteer Conductor Max, a retired Union Pacific railroad worker who keeps an eye on everything and tells stories with an entertaining sense of humor. 

After introductions and comments by the excursion train’s marketing and outreach director, Janet Dodson, we chugged northeast along the Grande Ronde River at a leisurely pace, through lush evergreen forests and verdant pastures, and by an old homestead with hundred of stories ensconced in its old walls.

The Grande Ronde starts 7,460 feet in the Blue Mountains near Anthony Lakes recreation area and flows into the Snake River south of Asotin, Washington. Then a few miles southeast of the Tri Cities, the Snake empties into the Columbia River, which spills into the Pacific Ocean at Astoria, Oregon.

Bob and Dave stood at the ready to provide snacks and drinks, to answer questions, and generally make everyone feel welcome. 

There were plenty of opportunities for picture taking. You can wander around the train from the dining car and snack bar to another car with a little historical display, comfy chairs and a big open window to view the scenery and take photos or videos. Picture taking is also allowed from the area between the rail cars. 

In some places the train goes so close to the rock outcroppings that you can almost reach out and touch them (not recommended!) 

2024 Eagle Cap Train Excursions

Themed Eagle Cap train rides occur on selected days throughout the summer and early fall. The excursions feature historical events, train robbery re-enactments, Mothers’ and Fathers’ Day trips, Oregon’s Alpenfest, Bigfoot storytelling, and End of Season Bounty rides where a meal of locally sourced beef, vegetables and fruit is served. Dates, descriptions, ticket sales, etc. can all be found at eaglecaptrainrides.com.

The trips cost between $65 and $100 per person, depending on the itinerary, with discounts for seniors and kids. There is a free offering on July 3^rd for US veterans, active duty military, and first responders along with reduced fares for their accompanying family and friends.

Between scheduled trips, entire cars can be reserved for groups, or the whole train can be chartered for an unforgettable special event. 

Our Trip to a Place Called Looking Glass

This particular trip went from Elgin to a place called Looking Glass, and I tried to find some historical details about it online but came up with nothing. This was part of the Chief Joseph band homeland and accounts about him and his father, the elder Joseph, are readily available. Looking Glass was a Nez Perce warrior who became incensed when tribal leaders signed away the rights to much of the nations’ vast territory during the 1855 Treaty Council at Walla Walla. There are some references to the role Looking Glass played in the so-called Chief Joseph War, which was essentially a running battle by Nez Perce dissidents fleeing from the pursuing US Cavalry, as far as I can tell. 

I’ve been curious about whether Looking Glass spent time at that particular spot on the Grande Ronde and if there are any stories about encounters with white settlers. Such gems might be tucked into a locally-written history book or perhaps among the archives at the Alvin M. and Betty Josephy Library of Western History and Culture at the Josephy Center in Joseph.  

The Depot at Elgin

The Wallowa Union Railroad Depot at 300 Depot Street in Elgin is worth a stop on your way to the Mountain View Motel & RV Park, whether or not you intend to ride the train. 

It was built in 2012 to resemble a traditional depot and contains restrooms, a gift shop, historical railroad artifacts and a ticket office. The open hours are a bit sporadic though, and the website suggests calling 541.437.3652 to speak with an attendant.

Joseph Branch Railroad History

The Joseph Branch is an extension of the original Oregon Railway & Navigation Company Railroad and the first section from La Grande to Elgin was completed in 1890. The line finally reached far-flung Joseph in 1908 and mixed service – passengers and freight – was available until 1960. Freight shipments that served the logging and agricultural industries stopped in 1996. Nowadays, the Wallowa Union Railroad Authority (WURA) owns, operates, and maintains the branch line. 

John Fogerty Live in Troy, Oregon

It was a huge deal for the 25 residents of remote Troy, Oregon, when John Fogerty of Creedence Clearwater Revival fame jammed with local musicians at the rustic Troy Inn and built a hunting retreat on the banks of the Grande Ronde River. 

There are only a handful of references on the Internet about that time in Fogerty's life even though it spanned more than a decade. In fact, his practice of playing with the locals there was even considered an urban myth until a very rare video surfaced on Youtube in March 2013, of John Fogerty singing on a tiny stage in Troy, sporting a beard, getting a beer buzz, and having a great time in November of 1987. 

The video and accompanying comments peppered by ‘insiders’ insights, commemorate details about that night and Fogerty’s days around Troy in general. 

“This is a keeper, and it should be included in a list of Fogerty`s top five videos of all time. He is in a small place, and clearly having a blast!” Tim Young 

Judging by the enthusiastic praises and thanks from Fogerty fans around the world, they love this old video, even though it’s just a blurry digitized VHS and the pick-up band consisted of local amateurs. 

“Priceless!” “Amazing!” “Unforgettable!” “This is a sincere life!” 

John Fogerty singing at Troy Oregon | 1987 video at https://youtu.be/pKrwnZ17Gtw 

Pretty much every Creedence fan that weighed in wishes they had been there except for one music aficionado who felt that such an unpolished performance by a big star was unacceptable. 

Several comments under the video are by people who were there or even joined John Fogerty on stage. Ken Pearl was assistant manager at the Shilo Inn, a.k.a the Troy Inn, in those days. He'd already downed a pitcher of beer before having the privilege of backing Fogerty on drums that night. Pearl is the first to admit his skills were a bit rough. Besides being tipsy, he’d only been playing for a couple of years. Stan Robb of Washington was on rhythm guitar. Nobody was on bass.

Pearl explains in one of his posts that on the night of that show, Fogerty had eaten at the restaurant before heading out on a hunting trip and mentioned that he intended to play when he got back. Knowing he would jam with the locals, the word went out for people to bring their instruments, but only three responded. Along with Pearl and Robb, the third was 70-year old Lester Earl Kiesecker who performed a harmonica solo that night. Kiesecker was a rancher who loved music and was known throughout the area for his fiddle playing and the popular community dances he hosted at his place.

A dog naps on the main drag, downtown Troy, Oregon | Photo by Estar Holmes

“Everyone must have been as hammered as we were, because all I heard the next couple days from people who had been there was, ‘You guys rocked!’” wrote Pearl, who was mainly amazed that such a thing could happen at all. “The best part for me, was that for two years after that complete strangers would come into the bar and ask me, ‘Aren't you John Fogerty's drummer?’” 

There are cynics who claim that was not really John Fogerty on stage that night. But the folks who were there obviously had a blast, singing, dancing, playing and letting loose with a top American rock legend who didn’t act like he was better than anyone else.

“This is flipping great, it is priceless…anyone would sell their home just to be able to buy a ticket to have seen this little gig, you would have the very best memories to last you a very long lifetime.” James Bradshaw

It had been twenty years since Fogerty told his band, the Golliwogs, that their new name would be Creedence Clearwater Revival, and much water had passed under the bridge since their stellar rise to fame. CCR shot to the top of the music charts in 1968 with their hit “Susie Q" at number 11, and they remained one of America’s top bands until they broke up in 1972. During those years John Fogerty churned out one hit after another. “Proud Mary” reached the number two spot in 1969, followed by “Bad Moon Rising” a few months later. They appeared on the Ed Sullivan Show twice that year, as well as performing a set at Woodstock. In all, they achieved nine top-ten singles and eight gold albums between 1968 and 1972, after which everything fell apart. 

Earlier in February of ‘87, before that show in backwoods Troy, Oregon, Fogerty had been invited to a guest gig at the Palomino Club in Hollywood, where he shared the stage with musical legends Bob Dylan, George Harrison, and Taj Mahal. They performed a few classic rock songs then Dylan goaded Fogerty into playing “Proud Mary.” Fogerty had been sticking to a vow he'd made not to play any old CCR songs due to bitterness over hassles with his old record label and unresolved clashes with band members. But Dylan pointed out that Tina Turner was getting so much play covering the tune that people would start thinking it was her song. So, Fogerty capitulated. It was the first time in years he was known to have played a CCR song in public. 

“…His moral strength, his integrity had the better of the criminals and exploiters. John you are all of us! May God keep you and your family forever!” Ivo Giuseppe Rapetta

Were the shows at the Troy Inn an exception to Fogerty's unwillingness to play CCR tunes in public? Rolling Stone writer, Cameron Crowe, was in Troy in 1975 and witnessed Fogerty singing, “Born on the Bayou.” And we know he did eight CCR songs on that 1987 video. Nobody else that mentions Fogerty's adventures in Troy has said whether or not he regularly performed other CCR tunes there, despite his unwillingness to do so in the rest of the world.

Fogerty first discovered the remote northeastern Oregon in spring of 1974 because his publicist, Jake Rohrer, was friends with a guy named Max Halsey who had property near Troy. Max called down to California one day and said a local hunting guide named Roger Wilson was going to take a string of mules up the Wenaha River to check on his hunting camps. Max planned to accompany him on horseback and asked if Fogerty and Rohrer wanted to ride along. Fogerty was intrigued, so the two flew into Lewiston, Idaho, where Halsey picked them up and drove them to Troy on a winding road called Rattlesnake. 

The Rattlesnake grade winds into remote Eastern Oregon from Idaho | Photo by Estar Holmes

“The only business in town was the Troy Resort, run by Wilson  and his family,” Rohrer writes in his memoir Fortunate Son, (not to be confused with Fogerty’s memoir Fortunate Son: My Life, My Music.) “It was old and quaint, a 2-story clapboard structure with a steeply pitched roof, western-style shutters and a hitching post out in front.” He describes their invigorating camping adventure, telling stories around a blazing fire then shivering the rest of the night in skimpy sleeping bags. 

Upon returning to town, they learned that Lester Kiesecker had arranged for a night of music, food, and dancing at his ranch. 

“Word had spread up and down the rivers and through the valleys, John Fogerty was in Troy!” Jake Rohrer

Fogerty sang a few songs with Lester's son's band. The entire experience was completely different from the cutthroat California music scene that had been weighing him down. He loved the camaraderie and the freedom. The genuine and easy spirit of the people opened his heart. “As we were dazzled by the terrain, we were charmed and welcomed by the people, their social life and the role music played in it, a natural existence that relied on the seasons and each other. We'd seen this life before only in movies,” Rohrer wrote. 

Fogerty and some of his friends returned for elk season that fall, and after that he seemed every bit as interested in establishing himself in Troy and becoming a hunter as he was in pursuing his musical career, Rohrer observed. Shortly thereafter Fogerty bought 400 acres fronting the Grande Ronde River and built a country retreat for his family and friends.

John Fogerty hunting retreat on the Grande Ronde | Photo courtesy of Amelia, Airbnb

A commenter on one blog post that mentions John Fogerty’s days in Troy recalled her excitement upon hearing about his land purchase on the Grande Ronde River. Sherry Waldrip wrote: “I'll never forget when my father-in-law (Cecil) came to Spokane and told us he sold his Troy property. He said, "I think the guy's a rock star, his name is John Fogerty." I grabbed his arm and said, "From Creedence Clearwater Revival? He IS a rock star Dad! Creedence is one of my favorite groups, and he's the lead singer!" 

Troy became a treasured getaway for Fogerty, his first wife Martha, their three children, and some close friends. “They spent summers there and were a part of our community, as were some of their friends from the entertainment world,” Deborah Reynolds recalls in the video’s comment section. Her dad owned the Troy Inn at that time, and she confirms that Fogerty would jam with the local talent during his visits. Her dad was also the guide that packed Fogerty and his buddies to hunting camp.

Fogerty was also a regular entertainer at Troy Days, which used to occur the first weekend in June, according to another commenter, Patti Allen. 

Anytime Wilson knew Fogerty was planning to play at his inn, he would get the word out through the local papers at Enterprise, Oregon, and Lewiston, Idaho. Troy’s informal music scene flourished as people crammed in from miles around. “Roger prospered, John's celebrity swelling the population of Troy beyond capacity and bringing him more customers than he'd ever seen,” according to Rohrer's memoir. 

A blogger identified as mgs4real recalled that her husband, Joseph, was helping Fogerty and his friends build the house and their families became acquainted. By that time the free concerts were drawing so many people the shows had moved into “The Tack Room” an outbuilding that was part of the resort. She got to sing “Midnight Special” there on stage with John Fogerty – one of those lifetime highlights one never forgets. She also recalls an unfortunate incident. After playing free for hours that night, John took a break and “some lowlife” stole his white Fender guitar. 

Troy embraced Fogerty like a long lost son. Even the jukebox which was once all country had every CCR single ever made, according to an observation by Crowe, the Rolling Stone reporter who ventured all the way to Troy to investigate what on earth the rock icon John Fogerty was up to in the wilds of Oregon.

Crowe’s visit had a humorous twist, as Rohrer tells in his memoir. He had called Wilson from California to let him know some guys from Rolling Stone were coming and they would need lodgings for a few days. He and Fogerty would be there soon to meet up with them. Wilson, not realizing Rolling Stone was a magazine, thought the Rolling Stones band was coming to Troy. True to his form, he started spreading the word, but the prospect of a visit from rock-and-roll’s bad boys was too much for the pastoral culture of northeastern Oregon. Police were alerted and they manned roadblocks on every road into Troy until the mistake was cleared up. 

Pearl says he thinks that 1987 show was the last time Fogerty played in Troy. He sold his holdings there in the early 90s after various local business deals he’d made went sour and pressing matters in California demanded all his attention again. 

John Fogerty's retreat on the Grande Ronde is now a 70s-themed Airbnb, with a shag rug, some CCR memorabilia, and a lot of memories about a time when things were pretty darn good.

This article by Estar Holmes of Worthwhile Media is sponsored by the Mountain View Motel & RV Park, which provides country-style lodgings near Joseph, Oregon, along with interesting insights about people, places, and events around Wallowa County northeastern Oregon.

Alkahest Leather Makes Shoes that Turn Heads and Soothe Feet

A style of footwear made by Alkahest Leather

Dustin Lyons of Alkahest Leather in Joseph, Oregon, makes custom leather footwear that feels like a second skin. The meticulously handcrafted creations emerging from his studio in the forest are comfortable, durable, artistic, and treasured by their owners. Each pair is made for a unique pair of feet.

“The footwear I build allows the feet to behave as they are designed to. It’s about strengthening, as opposed to over-supporting,” Dustin says, adding that various insoles and orthotics can be included for people who require arch and heel support.

What Customers Can Expect

All the shoes and boots produced at Alkahest Leather start with a consultation about the clients’ intended uses and preferences – basic, fancy, shoe, boot. Customers are encouraged to visit the studio, but Dustin also meets with them at fairs and "casting tours."

“The customer chooses colors, buttons, soles, etc.,” Dustin said. “Additional artwork is charged by the hour and can be selected from an ever-growing collection of stock designs, or the customer can bring an idea to me.  In essence, you design them and I build them."

Design selection is followed by a careful outline of the person’s feet followed by wrapping them with duct tape. Don’t worry. That part is done over a nylon or thin sock. Usually the cast of one foot is enough, unless the feet are so different that two separate molds are required.

A detailed explanation of the process is on Alkahest Leather along with video instructions, so people who are too far away for the in-person visit can learn how to do that part themselves.

Leather for the footwear is cut from soft but sturdy bull or bison hides sourced from a US supplier. Then it is glued, decorated, and sewn according to techniques Dustin learned at Bonney and Wills School of Shoemaking and Design in Ashland, Oregon.

The making of custom shoes is a branch of the “Bespoke” tradition wherein footwear is handmade to fit a particular individual. The unique style of shoes and boots Dustin makes are often called Renaissance moccasins, a fusion of historical Old World designs and American Indian influences, as far as the general type of construction and materials, along with an appreciation for wearable art. For centuries, cultures around the planet have used an array of beads, buttons, bright colors, appliqué, embroidery, and precious stones to decorate their leather shoes.

It takes about eight to thirty hours to craft a pair of Alkahest shoes, depending on the style and embellishments. People who order custom footwear from Dustin can expect it to be ready anywhere from two months to a year out. “We have a quicker turnaround in the spring,” Dustin said. “By late fall, I have a pretty deep list that takes me out 10 months.”

This Craft is Passed From Master to Apprentice

The so-called Renaissance moccasins were developed in the 60s by Hank Zander at a time when “healthy footwear” was not a mainstream value. Instead, people were cramming their feet into hard shoes with high heels and pointy toes, and podiatrists were doing quite well as a result. I know because my mother worked for one who often commented on the pitfalls of the shoes people were wearing. Zander’s creations gained some traction with those who valued a more natural approach to life, and they took off among Renaissance fair enthusiasts. These days, a handful of American shoemakers still craft functional shoes along those lines, and each contributes their own unique variations on the theme.

Dustin is in a line of American shoemakers who passed their skills from master to apprentice. He studied under William “Bill” Shanor, who learned from Scott Taylor, who was trained by master shoemaker Hank Zander. Dustin intends to take on students of his own in the future. Bill retired a few years ago at 75, after passing the torch to one of his acolytes, journeyman shoemaker, Ken Bode, who is moving the school to Eugene. 

After completing the training program in Ashland, Dustin and his former partner, Tera Ptacek, established Alkahest Leather there in 2011. 

Alkahest Moves to Joseph: Oregon's First Art and Cultural District

The business moved to the outskirts of Joseph, Oregon, four years ago. That was 2018, the same year Joseph declared itself the state’s first art and cultural district. There, in the midst of fellow creatives and inspiring natural beauty, Dustin put down roots at the end of Old Ski Run Road, on what he calls “a couple of uncombed acres” at the base of Chief Joseph Mountain, the traditional heartland of the Wallowa band of Nez Perces.

One of the first things he made after the Alkahest workshop was ready, were two pairs of boots for twin girls. Since then hundreds of shoes and other artisanal leather accessories – such as shoulder bags and hip bags embellished with decorative sewing, vivid colors, pieces of antler, and semi-precious stones, have emerged from the studio.

Casting Tours and Fairs

When he’s not working in the shop, Dustin hits the road for casting tours and meets with customers personally to make the duct tape molds around which the footwear is fashioned. 

Alkahest Leather is also a presence at fairs around the American West. Dustin was a vendor at Oregon’s juried Country Fair for years, where he always placed in the top ten of his category during the highly competitive entry process, and even attained first place one year. His first two fairs this year will be in Utah, followed by appearances in Oregon, Idaho, and Montana.

You can follow his schedule on the Alkahest Leather Facebook page.

The nomadic requirements of the profession don’t bother Dustin. He is a world traveler who previously backpacked overseas, rode the Trans Siberian Railway from Moscow to Mongolia, taught English in Asia, learned Spanish in Guatemala, and worked seasonally in Alaska. It was in 2009, after much wandering, that he stopped at the Renaissance Festival in Apache Junction and first saw samples of the boots that would eventually become his livelihood and anchor him in Oregon.

What is an Alkahest?

If you’re wondering what alkahest means, it’s a term alchemists of old used to define a universal solvent they were searching for. This led some people to proclaim that “the only universal solvent is spit,” a reference akin to “elbow grease” and the hard work it takes to “dissolve” things like stubborn stains or rust, for example. Certainly, being a successful entrepreneur like Dustin involves dissolving all sorts of challenges that tend to crop up. If you venture out to the edge of Eastern Oregon’s breathtaking Wallowa Mountains for a pair of Alkahest shoes or boots, you might ask Dustin what the term signifies to him.

See how to make a mold for Alkahest Footwear: https://alkahestleather.com/pages/test-copy-of-ordering-footwear

This article by Estar Holmes is brought to you by the Mountain View Motel & RV Park, which provides country-style lodgings along with interesting information about people, places, and events in the greater Joseph, Oregon, area.

Search for Wallowa Lake Legends in a Clear Bottom Kayak

There certainly is a lot to consider while paddling around the lake and curiously peering into the water through JoPaddle’s clear bottomed kayaks.

Ponder local legends about the various animals said to inhabit the bottom of Wallowa Lake while cruising around in a clear bottom kayak rented from JoPaddle, the folks who offer lake visitors the “Glacier Clear Adventure.” Clear kayaks allow users to see through the boat into the water.  Choose from rentals or the guided Night Tour Adventure.

Rent clear kayaks from JoPaddle on Oregon's Wallowa Lake

JO Paddle was established in 2018. New owners Hannah and Joshua Shoffner  took over the business last August and they are looking to add clear Stand Up Paddle boards to their inventory of SUPs this June.

No matter how you decide to explore the lake, while you are out there, keep an eye out for clues of Wally, a big serpent with a flat face, who supposedly lives at the bottom of the lake. He, she, or they even inspired a song by SufjanStevens. 

The Legend of the Wallow Lake Sea Monster made a big splash in 1885 when the Wallowa County Chieftain newspaper ran a story about a prospector who was paddling north across the lake to Joseph one evening when he was astonished by a huge animal to the right of his boat. The beast stuck its head and very long neck out of the water about 10 feet, paused, then quickly dove back into the lake. It appeared a second time on the other side of the prospector’s boat, and gave a low bellow, which the man said sounded something like a cow. He said it looked to be about 100 feet long.

Several Say They Saw the Wallowa Lake Serpent

Since then, several other people have reported glimpses of the creature, which is sometimes called Big Wally. Two locals saw it in 1932. Irene Wiggins, who lived along the lake said she spotted it many times between 1945 and 1983. She described its head as "a big, black thing, like a hog's head", and estimated the creature weighed hundreds of pounds.

In 1950, three people saw two monsters feeding on fish, the first being 16 feet long and the second eight feet long.

The Bryants saw Wally twice in 1978. The first time they glimpsed three humps that briefly broke the surface of the water.  Several months later they watched a twenty-foot-long serpent circle a portion of the lake for several minutes.

Bert Repplinger and Joe Babic said they saw a 32-foot creature with a three-foot-long head and neck rise above the surface of the lake in 1981. "I know it wasn't a 32-foot log and I know it wasn't a boat," Bert Repplinger said.

It is commonly alleged that the story of the lake monster originated with Nez Perce families who camped around Wallowa Lake. In fact people say the tribe has several tales about the beast in the lake. The one repeated most often involves a young couple, she was Nez Perce and he was Blackfeet. Their relationship was controversial since the two tribes were often at war. But the two fell in love and took a canoe out for a romantic glide on the lake one evening. The monster rose up and crashed down on the canoe and presumably killed them since they were never seen again.  It is said the Natives have been skittish about going on the lake ever since, preferring to do their fishing from shore.

However, local historians like Grace Bartlett, who collected stories that the local Natives shared with early settlers, did not believe that the lake monster tale is truly of tribal origin.

Nez Perce Legend of Other Animals Living in the Lake

There is, however, an authentic legend about animals living in the lake, that Mrs. Bartlett learned from A. W. Nelson who recounted it in his book, Those Who Came First, published in 1932. According to Mrs. Bartlett:

“What Indians do claim about Wallowa Lake is that a multitude of buffalo, blue and white elk, deer without horns, and many strange animals to them unknown, lived in the depths of that beautiful body of water. By creeping up to the lake over the high lateral moraine, especially of a morning, you could see great droves of queer animals grazing on the shore. With the slightest noise, the herd would stampede for the lake in an eerie mixture of whinnies bellows, and baas. In their quick dive to the unknown depths, the animals would churn the lake surface into froth, but soon all would be quiet and serene once more.” From the Wallowas by Grace Bartlett.

"Glass bottom" kayaks and Wallowa Lake tours at JoPaddle in Joseph, OR

Certain things are not allowed in the clear crafts, such as dogs and fishing. There are also weight and age limits, etc., so check the JoPaddle website for details. Reservations are being taken now for the 2021 season. Call them at 541-886-0086 for more information. They are on FB https://www.facebook.com/JOPaddle/ and Instagram, Jo Paddle (@joseph_oregon-paddle.

Chief Joseph Days 2021 Plans Underway

All things considered, the organizers say they are starting to feel really positive about this year’s rodeo as plans move forward.

2020-2021 CJD Honor Queens, L to R: Destiny Wecks, Casidee Harrod, and Brianna Micka

The 75^th Chief Joseph Rodeo is on for the last full week in July 2021. This is technically the rodeo's 76^th year, but due to last year’s Covid-19 shut down, the 75^th celebration will happen this year instead.

After checking with rodeos in other states, including Texas, North Dakota, and several in the Midwest, the organizers in Wallowa County made the unanimous decision to present the Chief Joseph Rodeo this summer, July 27 through Sunday, Aug. 1 at Harley Tucker Memorial Rodeo Grounds.

Harley Tucker, whose name the arena bears, was a hardworking cowboy who founded the rodeo in the late 40s, together with Ben and George Peal, Les Sannar, Les Masterson and a whole lot of local support. It originally started on Pearl Ranch land along the Wallowa Lake moraine, where the entire community pitched in to dig post-holes to build an arena that Mr. Masterson described as “more or less a rail fence with some chutes and little else,” not even an access road. Mr. Tucker enthusiastically supplied rodeo stock and otherwise supported the event until his death in April 1960.

Contractors who have agreed to participate this year include livestock contractor Tim Bidwell, announcer Jody Carper, rodeo bullfighters Nathan Harp and Chuck Swisher, and specialty act Magic in Motion EquineProductions with Madison MacDonald who was described as “Wonder Woman of the Rodeo Arena” by Ebbie Hanson of Rocken Zen Rodeo.

 Madison MacDonald of Magic in Motion Equine Productions

The Covid cancellation of last year’s event was a disappointment but the generosity of rodeo fans helped the local organization prepare for this year’s season, according to CJD Rodeo Board President Terry Jones. Many ticket refunds were made but, “there were a lot of generous people who donated their 2020 ticket purchase to the rodeo rather than taking refunds,” he said. Also, many sponsors who had paid more than $15,000 in rodeo sponsorships last year, allowed the coordinating committee to keep the money, even though they were going through their own financial difficulties. “That’s appreciated more than anyone will know,” Mr. Jones said.

The schedule may need some adjustments to accommodate the ongoing “dynamic, fluid” coronavirus stipulations, but organizers intend to adapt. The dance, and Back Country Bash, for example, might have to take place outdoors. An unfortunate exception to holding all the usual events might be the Nez Perce friendship gathering and feast, one of the highlights everyone looks forward to, according to an article in the Wallowa County Chieftain.

 The Nez Perce have been hit hard by the virus, so might opt out this year. The event ordinarily welcomes tribal participants from Lapwai, the Umatilla Reservation, and the Colville Reservation, where Chief Joseph is buried near Nespeelem. “Many of the people who participate in that feast are elders,” Mr. Jones said. “We don’t want to create a situation that would be bad for them, or anyone who attends.”

Rodeo Tickets

The Chief Joseph Days Rodeo “Feel the Thunder” gift store and headquarters are open Mon., Wed., Thurs., Fri., and Sat., from 9 to 4, at 401 Main in Joseph, Oregon. Check chiefjosephdaysrodeo.com for tickets and more information.

Sources:

Wallowa County Chieftain: https://www.wallowa.com/coronavirus/chief-joseph-days-rodeo-will-ride-in-2021/article_9e89947a-7313-11eb-a839-f394ab061d6f.html

Ticket Sales: https://chiefjosephdaysrodeo.com/ticket-sales/

Remembering Harley Tucker: https://www.wallowa.com/archives/remembering-harley-tucker-and-the-birth-of-chief-joseph-days/article_4405c113-358a-5c82-8506-51a59407c025.html

Wallowa Paragliding

Paragliding over Wallowa Lake. Photo courtesy of wallowa paragliding, llc

If leaping off the edge of a mountain and soaring like a bird is on your bucket list, you can make it happen a few miles from Joseph, Oregon, with a tandem paragliding ride piloted by Todd Weigand, owner of Wallowa Paragliding, LLC.

It may sound like a crazy idea, but paragliding enthusiasts assert that the sport is about as safe as riding in a car. The flights operate in August and September, after the level of Wallowa Lake drops and the landing area at the Wallowa River delta becomes accessible. Todd's tandem rides don't require any previous experience or special equipment on the riders' part. 

The launch point is 7,950-feet above sea level on the north side of Mt. Howard. After riding up the mountain on the Wallowa Lake Tramway, it's an easy half-mile hike to the launch point. Todd will provide the necessary instructions, then, if wind conditions are right, he will get the two of you strapped in, and off you go. It takes about twelve minutes to glide over the evergreen forests, 3,550 vertical feet down to the lakeside landing zone.

Todd has safely flown more than 5,000 tandem passengers on his paragliders and he's also exceeded some records during the past 22 years. He he holds the record for the longest and highest flights from Mt. Howard and he was the first pilot to glide across Hells Canyon. He has flown or competed in 18 countries around the world and guided numerous international paragliding trips to Chile, France, Switzerland, Italy, and Turkey.

If you are a seasoned and certified paraglider interested in the Mt. Howard launch, plan your visit by contacting the Eagle Cap Paragliding Club or Wallowa Paragliding for all the necessary information and updates on local conditions.

You're never too old to soar. The eldest woman paraglider on record is Peggy McAlpine, who took to the sky at the age of 104 from a 2,400-foot peak.

Contact:

wallowaparagliding@gmail.com
541.398.2558

Eagle Cap Paragliding Club - eaglecapparagliding@gmail.com

Petroglyph Day Trip from Joseph

 Snake river petroglyph site near Joseph Oregon

 

 

 

 

 

It's a nice day trip from the Mountain View Motel & RV Park near Joseph in the northeastern corner of Oregon,  to see petroglyphs along the Snake River at the Buffalo Eddy historical site.

The artwork at Buffalo Eddy is attributed to the the Nimí'pu (Nez Perce), who created the art between 300 and 4,500 years ago, according to the National Park Service. The symbols are preserved on both the Washington and Idaho sides of the river, but the glyphs on the Idaho side can only be viewed from the water, which makes for a popular tour boat stop. Buffalo Eddy takes its name from some of the pictures on the Idaho side, which depict bison and hunters on horseback.

HOW TO GET TO BUFFALO EDDY FROM THE MT VIEW MOTEL

To get there from the motel, turn left (north) on the Snake River Scenic Byway (Hwy 82) to Enterprise, then turn right at the Chevron station onto Oregon Route 3 toward Flora and Lewiston, Idaho. Fill up on gas in Enterprise because the next fuel is 79 miles north in Asotin, Washington, and these directions take a road that cuts off before then.

Two miles north of Enterprise, you may see buffalo grazing at Stangel Bison Ranch. Grass fed bison meat from the ranch is locally available at The Dollar Stretcher Grocery Store at Enterprise and at several local restaurants.

JOSEPH CANYON VIEWPOINT

At 21.6 miles you will enter the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest with many roads and trails to explore sometime. 

The pullout at Joseph Canyon Viewpoint, 30 miles north of Enterprise, features a beautiful vista of Joseph Canyon, where, tradition says, Chief Joseph was born in a cave about 2,000 feet below.  Joseph's band sometimes wintered at the base of the canyon along Joseph Creek.

There are interpretive signs and vault toilets at the pullout

RATTLESNAKE GRADE

After about seven more miles, the road starts to wind down the switchbacks of Rattlesnake Grade. It's a striking landscape with the Grand Ronde River at the bottom. You'll cross into Washington on this stretch and the road turns into Hwy 129. Bogan's Oasis on the river is the only place on this trip to eat or get an order to go. If Bogan's is closed, there is another public restroom down the driveway on the right, next to the river where rafters put in. Then the highway continues snaking back up to the top of the plateau.

Just after leaving the trees past the Fields Spring State Park entrance, look for Montgomery Rd. on the right (58 miles past Enterprise). Follow this road east for 19 miles down to the Snake River. It turns from asphalt to dirt and changes to Sherry Grade Rd., then Crouse Creek Rd., before meeting the Snake River Rd.

BUFFALO EDDY PETROGLYPH SITE

Turn right on Snake River Rd. and drive 4.5 miles to the Buffalo Eddy Petroglyph pullout. There is an interpretive sign and a short trail along the river's edge. It leads to a tumble of rocks with many ancient symbols scratched into them. How many can you find?

 

BONUS

You can tell people you've been to the deepest canyon in North America! Carved by the Snake River, it marks the border between Oregon and Idaho. The river lies more than a mile below the rim in Oregon and 8,000 feet below the highest peak of Idaho's Seven Devils Mountains. The best way to explore it is with a Hells Canyon Adventures guided tour.

 

 

 

When Squirrels Fly

If you see a small squirrel-sized animal gliding through the air at night in the forest around Joseph, it just might be a flying squirrel.

They are usually active for a couple of hours after sunset and for a little more than an hour before sunrise. Flying squirrels love wild mushrooms and they help spread fungi spores through the forest.

You can learn all about flying squirrels, where to spot them, and how to promote habitat for them on your property, at a free presentation by Todd Wilson, PhD, at Wallowalogy in Joseph on May 10 at 7 pm. Call 541-263-1663  for info.

For wildlife viewing opportunities in Oregon, check out the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife's Weekly Recreation Report to discover what wild animals are out and about and where you might spot them.

Mountain Biking in the Wallowas



Photo courtesy of Brian Sather, the Grizzly Ridge Trail near Imnaha. lagranderide.com/rideguide/mountain-bike/joseph

Mountain bikers who plan to do some riding in Wallowa County should check out the network of mapped, signed and maintained trails south of Joseph, which are promoted by the Wallowa Chamber of Commerce with maps and instructions. Trailheads are near Ferguson Ridge Snow Park, 14 miles south of Joseph, and at the Salt Creek Summit pull-out, 19 miles south of town. Riding season is typically mid-June to the end of October.



The Redmont Trail Area near Joseph, Oregon

The trails lie mostly within the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest and include rides suitable for beginner to advanced. Bike riders will find a mix of single track, double track, and dirt/gravel roads that traverse forested terrain with several meadow openings that reveal views of the mountains.

A contributor to the in the mtbr forum says the Redmont Trail has "some decent tread for about a 14-mile loop." Another wasn't quite as impressed due to an undesirable amount of double track and overgrown roads. But from reading the Wallowa Chamber's website, it looks like more energy has gone into rider hospitality in recent years.

Even so, MTB opportunities are limited in the Wallowa area despite the profusion of wide open country and public lands. For example, no bikes are allowed on the trails around Wallowa State Park and much of the surrounding forest beyond the park is Wilderness. The beautiful grasslands of  Zumwalt Prairie north of town are also off limits to bikes.

Mountain bikers are naturally attracted to the idea of hauling their gear up Howard Mountain on the Tram on the south end of Wallowa Lake, but that desire is unfortunately not supported by the owners at this time.

There are a few other cool rides you may want to check out on the way to Joseph. The Elkhorn Crest Trail near Baker offers single track, and there are riding opportunities between Enterprise and the Grande Ronde River in the Sled Springs OHV area along State Hwy 82.

 
For detailed insights about these trails and other possibilities, check MTB enthusiast Brian Sather's Mountain Bike Guides for Joseph on LaGrande Ride Inc,

When Hollywood Came to the Wallowas.

The filming of Paint Your Wagon, a Western musical filmed in the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest fifty years ago, is being commemorated at the Baker Heritage Museum this year.

Set in a remote California gold rush town called No Name City, the main characters, played by Lee Marvin, Clint Eastwood, and Jean Seberg, were working out the question of whether a woman can have two husbands.

The Making Of - "PAINT YOUR WAGON" - Behind The Scenes by jleepixprod

The action started in May 1968, with the construction of No Name City where the East Eagle and Jack Creeks converge. A Forest Service sign marks the spot today. A model of the boom town is part of the museum exhibit. Other area filming sites included a tent city at Kettle Creek and East Eagle Creek, a stage stop at Anthony Lakes, and a mill in Baker City.

A casting office for extras opened in Baker City and all the excitement made for a memorable summer for the locals, who remember running into various Hollywood stars around town, as well as being exposed to a lot of hippies who came up from California to work as extras.

Clint Eastwood enjoyed fly fishing during his time off and Lee Marvin preferred drinking with locals in area taverns. In fact, rumor has it Marvin's heavy drinking during the filming caused numerous delays and retakes. The delays frustrated Eastwood, who said the experience strengthened his resolve to become a director, according to offbeatoregon.com.

A woman named Mary Ann, who was just 14 at the time, lived about a mile from No Name City, which her father helped build. It was exciting to watch all the actors, extras, and even a bear, being chauffeured past her home each day on the way to the set. Her recollections are part of an archive at
http://www.oregonicons.com/paintyourwagon.htm

Here is a Baker City Herald article from 2001 where some locals share stories about how the filming and rubbing shoulders with the stars impacted them.

If you were there and have stories to share, or just want to hear local tales of when Hollywood came to the Eagle Cap, mark your calendar for Thursday, June 14th, at 6 pm for the Paint Your Wagon Storytelling Event at the museum. Admission: Adults (13+) $7.00, Seniors (60+) $6.00, Children (12 and under) Free. The museum is open daily for the season, 9am - 4pm. 2480 Grove Street, Baker City, OR 97814, 541-523-9308.